AW: MEPHISTO – FREE SOLO

Der Hans-Jörg Auer, ein wortgewaltiger und nervenstarker Ausnahmealpinist! Hab kürzlich in einer EOFT Werbemeldung Alex Honnold als den weltstärksten Free Solo Kletterer annociert gelesen. Ich widerspreche: Der Titel gebührt meiner Meinung nach dem Hans-Jörg.

Abgesehen davon: Es ist nicht nur beeindruckend, sondern auch in gewissem Ausmaß aufschlussreich, wenn man die Motivation in den eigenen Worten des Akteurs formuliert liest. Schon spannend dieser kleine Einblick in die Psyche...

AW: MEPHISTO – FREE SOLO

Galt nicht bisher der Mittelpfeiler als erster 8er Grad in den Alpen ?Reinhold Messner kletterte die 4m Meter Schlüselstelle(soll 7a = VIII sein !) bereits 1968: on sight und sehr schlecht abgesichert.

Sehenswertes Video vom Italiener Nicola Tondini:

Text dazu:

ANALYSIS ON SASS DLA CRUSC – PILASTRO DI MEZZO by Nicola Tondini

For many years now the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc has been intrinsically linked to the Messner brothers. Reinhold and Günther Messner climbed the smooth slabs of the 200m high pillar wedged into the massive Sass dla Crusc on 6 and 7 July 1968. Those who have repeated Reinhold's Dolomite routes know full-well how this strong climber was attracted to slabs. Despite having only pegs and wearing rigid boots, Messner often set out to search for a sequence of holds which would enable him to climb those compact grey limestone walls: the North Face of the second Sella Tower, the North Face of Sass da Putia, the North Face o Cima del Velo della Madonna, the South Face of the Marmolada, the friction slabs on Sasso delle Nove and Sass dla Crusc were some of his playgrounds and testament to his immense intuition. Even today these routes arouse fear: long run-outs and the need to read the slabs correctly are the reason why many climbers heed the routes of this South Tyrolean alpinist.

On Via Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc, Reinhold Messner created a true masterpiece with his brother Günther. Right from the outset the two brothers worked hard to find a line upwards and they were forced into a long traverse with a pendulum to get past an extremely smooth section. And then, on the 4th pitch, they came across that 4m slab just above a small ledge. They could sense the holds, but these were decidedly small. Messner stayed there for almost an hour, attempting to understand how to get past. He then risked it all, and succeeded. In doing so he climbed the first grade VIII in history, free.

Over time this section has gained notoriety. Some claim on internet forums to have found easier ways up than the Mariacher variation. But the fact of the matter is that the original section continues to prove a sticking point for many. I myself had read and heard various thoughts about those moves: did he perhaps place a peg, had perhaps a hold broken off in the meantime, how could it be that he succeeded while so many other strong climbers backed off? And so on. I repeated the route for the first time 18 years ago and at the time I climbed the route intent on doing the Mariacher variation. Obviously I was curious to try the Messner slab and so I recently suggested to Massimo Lucco, an extremely strong friend and client, that we give it a shot to understand it better. We decided to climb the route on 3 September, and a couple of days beforehand I got in touch with Andrea Tosi and Paola Finali, two expert photographers and filmmakers who have been following me lately on some of my adventures. I suggested they film the famous Messner slab.

On 3 September Massimo and I reached the base of Diedro Mayerl and climbed this to the ledge at half-height. From here we traversed left along the ledge and in 10 minutes reached the start of the Messner route on the Pilastro di Mezzo (in truth the original line reaches the ledge direct by climbing 300m up an extremely loose and dangerous grade V pillar). It was just gone 10am. I phoned Andrea who had reached the top on foot together with Paolo, Ingo and Mario. While Massimo and I climbed the first pitches, they fixed the static ropes for the shoot, so when I reached the 4th pitch Andrea and Paola were already in loco. In order to attempt the Messner slab I belayed as indicated in the precise description by Ivo Rabanser. Before trying the moves from below I looked at the section on top rope. It took me a while to understand how to do the sequence without making it extremely difficult. In the end I set off from below and did it, a difficult single crux grade VIII (7a). There are three crimps which are hard to hold. But how come it's so difficult to on-sight therefore? The answer is simple:

- just like many "bizarre" boulder problems, this too has a start which is difficult to get right. You naturally want to set off with one foot, but it you do so you get stuck right away. If on the other-hand you start with the "wrong" foot you then find that the sequence flows correctly and the section can be climbed if you have good finger strength. Something which Messner certainly wasn't lacking.

- psychologically you're not in a great position:

a) your partner cannot see you or, if you decide to belay immediately beneath this section, you risk falling directly onto the belay;

b) if you fall you can easily hit the ledge, unless you throw yourself vigourously out into the void

c) the gear isn't run-out, but nevertheless it's beneath your feet

d) you realise that if you make a mistake, there's no turning back

e) there's an easier exit: the Mariacher variant

I'd like to conclude by saying that Messner, in climbing those 4 meters, created a masterpiece. I believe he free climbed it and that no fundamental holds have broken since his first ascent. He studied the moves for an hour and then, with the determination which has always set him apart, he set off with the correct foot sequence, pulled with all his might on those 2-3 crux crimps and reached the good holds which led to easier ground.

Nicola Tondini

VIDEO filmed and edited by Andrea Tosi of Nicola Tondini's ascent of the "Messner slab" after having attempted it on toprope.